Sunday, September 11, 2011

Waiting for the cows to come home

We left Hallstatt in the rain and drove over to a little finger of Germany that pokes south into Austria called Berchtesgaden. It's famous for its natural beauty but also as Hitler's summer home. Early in his political career he would spend time in a mountain house there that would eventually become a large, secure compound after he kicked all the locals out. It was bombed heavily toward the end of the war, but a few buildings remain. There is an excellent museum about Hitler and the rise of the Nazis with the best part being a tour of the underground bunker complex that was built in the last years of the war. It was very interesting and somewhat spooky, with old machine gun placements guarding doors and graffiti from the first troops (French) to make entry into the bunker.

Afterwards we headed back into Austria to the town of Lofer, and set up in a nice campsite. Not your average KOA.




Allie and Noelle discovered the campground's play area while Jolene and I sat on the porch with a local beer. The play area had a zip line, slack line, in-ground trampoline, in addition to the slides, swings, and other run-of-the-mill stuff. We finished our beers and joined them in the playground. I'm sure that we've set the bar too high now and a boring old swing set isn't going to be enough anymore.

Leaving town, we were told about a village down canyon that was having its annual festival celebrating the return of the cows from the high meadows to the valley. Arriving in the village, we found folks that were dressed in traditional alpine garb and the band was playing. We attempted to order some interesting local dishes that we saw others enjoying. Unfortunately we received hot dogs, french fries, and a hamburger. I'm sure the waitress ignored my order and yelled at the cook, "Give them the American Special!" Those tardy cows were taking their time coming down from the mountains so we sent the kids out to round them up.




The cows weren't budging so they found some goats that were easier to herd.




We headed south over the Alps and punished poor Dagobert over one of the most impressive roads we've ever driven--the Grossglockner. It wasn't much more than a paved cow-trail with 36 switchbacks by the time we were on flat land again.



We were able to see some huge glaciers close up. Pictures never do the experience justice.



We limped Dagobert into a campground, smoking brakes and all, and the kids set out to find the playground. "What, a lousy slide and teeter-totter? How lame!"


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